By Craig Davis, craigslegztravels.com
At first glance the itinerary was confusing. It showed the cruise starting in Venice , but next to it in parenthesis was Trieste.
The embarkation port was in fact more than 70 miles to the northeast of Venice on the opposite corner of the Adriatic Sea in Trieste – a 100-mile journey by land.
Trieste is the new Venice, at least as a starting or ending port for many cruises since Venice banned large cruise ships (over 25,000 gross tonnage) in 2021.
Arriving at Venice’s Marco Polo Airport, a pre-cruise visit to Italy’s most iconic city is a popular option. Instead we chose the road-less-traveled option and took the two-hour train ride directly to Trieste, and were glad we did.
Trieste, in northeastern Italy close to Slovenia, turned out to be the gem of our European trip. It’s a beautiful, walkable city with Parisian-style sidewalk cafes and elegant Austrian-Hungarian architecture.
There is no denying Venice is one of most beautiful port cities in the world, but it has a major tourist problem.
EUROPEAN CRUISE 2024: Highlights from fast-paced tour with multiple stops in Italy, Croatia, Greece and Turkey.
Trieste’s Piazza Unità d’Italia is Europe’s largest seafront square. (Craig Davis, craigslegztravels.com)Trieste rated highest quality of life in Italy
Trieste was the least touristy of the 10 ports we visited on a nine-day cruise on the Norwegian Viva in May 2024. Its impressive central piazza – Piazza Unità d’Italia is Europe’s largest seafront square – may fall short of Venice’s St. Mark’s Square, but it’s much less crowded. The buildings are stunning, the ambience casual and the vibe upbeat.
Trieste also has its own grand canal lined with outdoor restaurants, which abound throughout the city.
It has everything to love about Italy. Stunning architecture. Incredible food. Best part is the people.
According to a survey by the Italian financial newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore, Trieste is the city with the highest quality of life in Italy. In detail, Trieste ranks first in the culture and leisure category, second for work and business opportunities and first for society, health, wealth and consumption.
All of that was evident in watching the people during our two days in Trieste. Overall they are attractive and appeared fit, energetic, passionate. Their zest for life was obvious and their attitude captivating.
Trieste off the main tourist track
Trieste seemed friendly and welcoming, but it is up to visitors to figure out how to fit into their ways. You order American coffee and are served something similar to Cuban coffee – very strong and they don’t bring cream. And don’t expect your pizza to arrive sliced.
That was fine with us. The challenge was to follow their lead, and there were awkward moments initially. Like when our first drink order was served along with several items that looked like hors d’oeuvres or dessert. When we said we hadn’t ordered that, the waiter patiently explained all of that is served complimentary to accompany alcoholic drinks. We had trouble finding breakfast the first morning and happily settled for pizza, salad and beer.
The pace of life in Trieste is unhurried, except on the roads. Most people drive Fiats or Vespas, or comparable stubby sedans and growling motor scooters. And they scoot at a persistent pace – men and women of all ages, it’s always zoom zoom, go go. Probably because they are in a hurry to get to a favorite cafe to sip and socialize.
Staying at the Hotel Urban Design, adjacent to Piazza Unità d’Italia, we found plenty to do within walking distance. The Canal Grande was just a few blocks away, and everywhere there were dining and Happy Hour options.
Trieste a blend of cultures
Trieste, which was created as a Roman colony by Julius Caesar, has been described as the least Italian of the ports of Italy and referred to as Vienna -by-the-sea. The latter is reflected in the architecture, its cafe culture and tradition of literature and arts stretching back 100 years. Irish author James Joyce spent more than a decade in Trieste and wrote much of his notable work, including “Dubliners,” there.
The city’s history and location reflects a cultural blend of Italian, Austrian, Slovenian and Croatian influences. From our observations, the people seemed very Italian. Yet the cuisine was diverse, indicative of the region.
We heard about a Trieste specialty that combines Hungarian goulash with Italian gnocchi. On our last night we found it in a restaurant along the Canal Grande, Ristobar le Delizie, and it was unique and delicious. The surprise was that the restaurant was run by Asians who spoke English with Italian accents.
I told the woman at the front desk of our hotel that we thought Trieste was a very special place. She shrugged and said, “It just seems normal to me.”
After two days we were starting to catch on to the flow of Trieste and did t want to leave. We’ll be on the lookout for another cruise itinerary that includes Trieste.
Cruising from Trieste
Most cruise ships depart from the Stazione Marittima passenger terminal in the heart of Trieste’s waterfront, a couple blocks from the city’s centerpiece square, Piazza Unità d’Italia. Our ship left from Ormeggio 57 at the bustling commercial shipping port, which required a 15-minute taxi ride from the city center. So check which location your ship is departing or arriving.
We enjoyed watching the process of loading shipping containers on a giant Maersk container ship while waiting for our cruise ship to embark. Trieste has been a major commercial port for 300 years. In the 21st century, is is considered Italy’s most important port, a gateway to Asia and throughout the Mediterranean.
Trieste Centrale train staton is centrally located in the heart of Trieste, a short taxi ride to hotels, waterfront and terminals where cruise shiops dock. (Craig Davis, craigslegztravels.com)Getting to Trieste
By train: If going into Venice before continuing to Trieste, take the train from Venice Santa Lucia station on the island.
Proceeding directly to Trieste, we took the bus from Venice’s Marco Polo Airport (ATVO express or line No. 15) to the Venezia Mestre train station on the mainland. We arrived sooner than expected and were able to catch an earlier train than we had booked; trains come by about every hour on the route to Trieste Centrale Train Station. We enjoyed the two-hour ride through agricultural country in northern Italy. The last stretch along the upper Adriatic Sea is quite scenic. We paid €17 per ticket and were surprised that nobody checked our tickets aboard the train.
By air: The other popular option is to fly into Trieste Airport, about 20 miles from the city. A taxi ride from Trieste Airport to Trieste costs from 50€ to 80€
The Hotel Urban Design is situated in the heart of Trieste, just off the Piazza Unità d’Italia, close to restaurants and the main cruise terminal. (Craig Davis, craigslegztravels.com)Where to stay in Trieste
We chose the Hotel Urban Design due to its location in the heart of Trieste, just off the Piazza Unità d’Italia in easy walking distance of countless restaurants, cafes and other attractions in the city, including seafront, public squares and grand canal. The hotel is modern, minimalist; it felt very European, which we liked. The room was small but comfortable.
They offer a breakfast buffet, which was average but adequate, in a dining area with a glass floor that offers a view of ancient Roman ruins. The hotel staff was friendly and helpful. We would stay there again.
Here are some other hotels to consider.
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